A well made cheongsam is defined by quiet precision. The lines look simple, yet every curve and seam has been considered for your frame, your posture, and the way you move. If you are thinking about commissioning a custom cheongsam in Singapore and you have never worked with a bespoke tailor before, this guide walks you through the process from the first message to the final handover. You will know what to prepare, how fittings work, and the timeline to plan around important dates.
Why choose a bespoke fitting
Off the rack dresses can look lovely on a hanger but they rarely sit perfectly on a real body. A bespoke fitting starts with your proportions, not a generic size chart. The pattern is drawn for you, the seams are placed where they flatter you most, and the fabric is chosen for your event and climate. This is the easiest way to achieve a clean neckline, a smooth hip line, and a slit height that feels elegant rather than fussy. For clients with specific requests such as nursing access, modesty panels, or heirloom trims, custom work is the only path that meets the brief without compromise.
How to prepare before you visit
Bring a simple checklist. It makes the session focused and productive.
-
Event details
Share the date, venue, time of day, and expected dress code. Lighting and setting influence fabric and colour choices. -
Reference photos
Save a few looks you like. They do not need to be cheongsam photos only. Necklines, sleeve shapes, trims, and accessories all help us read your taste. -
Shoes and underpinnings
Bring the heels and bra you plan to wear. The final hem and bust shaping depend on them. -
Timeline and budget
Tell us your decision date and your preferred spend. We will tailor recommendations to both.
If you want to begin with a ready to wear base and refine from there, explore our edits of formal cheongsam and everyday cheongsam. You can also browse formal dresses if you are building a multi event wardrobe.
The first consultation
Your first appointment is a conversation, not a measurement marathon. We discuss your preferences, your comfort zones, and how you want to feel in the dress. Some clients want a fitted silhouette with a higher slit for evening. Others prefer a soft A line for ease of movement during tea ceremonies. We will suggest necklines, sleeve options, and closure styles that match your notes. If you are commissioning a custom cheongsam as part of a bridal set, we will also plan how the second look complements the tea dress rather than repeating it. When you are ready to begin, you can book an appointment.
Measurements and pattern making
A cheongsam looks simple but relies on precise shaping. We take measurements across the bust, waist, high hip, full hip, shoulder slope, back length, bicep, and posture adjustments. The pattern is drafted to your proportions and to your chosen silhouette. Placement of darts and princess seams is adjusted to create a smooth line without strain. If your shoulders are slightly uneven or your posture leans forward from desk work, we account for that now so the collar sits clean and the armholes feel easy.
Choosing fabric that works in our climate
Fabric determines how the dress holds its shape and how it photographs. Here is a clear view of common choices and when to use them.
-
Silk satin holds colour and drapes close to the body. It reads formal and is ideal for evening events.
-
Crepe has a matte look and resists creasing. It is comfortable for daytime and business functions.
-
Brocade adds texture and volume. It works well for gala nights and tea ceremonies.
-
Lace softens lines and gives depth without heavy shine. Use with a stable base to avoid cling.
-
Organza overlays temper strong colours and allow tonal play. They add movement without weight.
We will show swatches in natural and warm light to confirm how the colour reads. If you are deciding between two palettes, we can set trims such as piping and frog buttons to push the tone warmer or cooler. For guidance on colour theory, see our earlier article or ask to view client stories on our press and as featured on pages.
The basted fitting
For significant changes or for new clients, we often begin with a basted version in a test fabric. This stage confirms the collar height, armhole comfort, waist position, hip ease, and slit height. We mark adjustments directly on the garment. Small changes here prevent strain lines later and save time at the final fitting. If you are on a tight timeline, we can combine steps, but a basted fitting gives the most reliable result for a first commission.
The details that lift the dress
Subtle design choices create a refined finish.
-
Collar height
A slightly lower Mandarin collar can lengthen the neck while keeping the traditional line. Clients with shorter necks tend to prefer this. -
Sleeves
Cap sleeves sharpen the shoulder. Short set in sleeves add coverage without bulk. Sleeveless reads modern and suits evening looks. -
Closures
Traditional frog buttons are classic. Hidden zippers keep the line clean. A mix of both gives heritage at the neckline and convenience at the side. -
Piping
Tonal piping is quiet and expensive looking. Contrast piping frames the silhouette and can slim the torso when placed carefully. -
Slit height
The final height depends on event and comfort. We always check this in your shoes and with your typical stride.
The final fitting and handover
At the last fitting, we confirm ease, hem length, and finishing details. You will practice sitting and walking to ensure nothing pulls or rides up. Any refinements are completed by our team before collection. If you plan to wear the dress across multiple events and anticipate changes in weight, tell us early so we can build in discreet adjustment options. After your event, our alteration services can refresh fit for future use.
Real timelines that work
Plan with comfortable buffers. As a general guide:
-
Simple design in stock fabric
Three to four weeks with two fittings. -
Detailed work or special fabric
Six to eight weeks with basted and final fittings. -
Bridal sets or multiple outfits
Eight to ten weeks, especially if embroidery or custom dye lots are involved.
If your date is close, speak to us. We can advise on feasible options and prioritise designs that deliver the most impact within your window.
Caring for your cheongsam
Good care extends the life of a handmade piece.
-
Hang on a padded hanger and avoid wire hooks.
-
Steam rather than iron, especially on satin and brocade.
-
Spot treat gently and use professional cleaning for full refreshes.
-
Store away from direct sun to prevent fading.
-
Keep trims covered to avoid snagging against other garments.
If you ever need a slit adjustment, a collar tweak, or a waist refine, our studio can handle precise work with quick turnaround through our alteration services.
Frequently asked questions
Can I commission a dress if I am still deciding on my final weight
Yes. We draft to your current proportions and schedule a final fit close to your event. Small shifts are easy to refine.
Is a custom cheongsam suitable for day and night
Absolutely. Fabric and trim make the difference. Crepe and matte jacquards read polished for day. Satin and brocade elevate for evening.
What if I want something modern but respectful
We often blend a clean silhouette with subtle heritage details such as hand worked buttons or a floral jacquard. The result honors tradition while feeling current.
How many fittings do I need
Most clients complete two. First fit confirms shape. Final fit signs off comfort and length. A basted stage is added when design complexity or timeline benefits from it.
Ready to begin
A bespoke tailor thrives on clarity. When you arrive with a few references, your event details, and a clear timeline, the process becomes enjoyable and calm. If you prefer to start by trying on silhouettes, visit our formal cheongsam or everyday cheongsam collections for ideas. When you are ready to create your own, book an appointment. Our team will guide you from the first sketch to the final stitch, and we will be here after your event if you ever want to refine the fit for future wear.